Early 1900s Wedding Diamond Cuts

The cut of diamonds used in antique bridal jewelry is one of many factors used to determine the approximate age of an antique bridal set, engagement ring or ladies estate wedding ring. The cut should never be used exclusively to date jewelry. Like today, many jewelers would use available old diamonds or diamonds from other jewelry to create new items or to replace lost or damaged diamonds.

During the Edwardian Jewelry Period of the early 1900s, old mine-cut diamonds would be the most popular diamond used as the center stone. This diamond cut originated in Brazil. Mine-cuts are recognized by their square girdle, high crown with 32 facets and 24 facets on the pavilion. This old diamond cut would have a cushion-shaped stone with a small table, high top facet or area called the crown, and an open or large flat facet at the bottom of the diamond called the cutlet. Even the finest of hand-cut old-mine cut diamonds are not symmetrical. Old mine-cut diamonds would eventually evolve into today’s brilliant-cut diamonds.

During most of the Art Deco Jewelry Period, the old European-cut diamond

would be used frequently in bridal jewelry. The old European cut would evolve from the old-mine cut. The old European-cut is very similar to the old-mine cut diamond, with the major change of a rounded, circular girdle. Around 1891, diamond cutters would begin to use bruting tools to get rounded, circular girdles. The old-European stone was used during most of the Art Deco Jewelry Period. The old-European cut of the early 1900s would be asymmetrical due to the hand-cut nature. After1920, the brilliant-cut diamond would begin being used. The old European-cut would be known as the transitional diamond, used between the old mine-cut diamond and today’s brilliant-cut diamonds.

In the late 1890s through the 1940s, single cut diamonds would be used to embellish the center or larger diamond cuts. Smaller diamonds would be cut into single or rounded single cut diamonds. They would be recognized by their simpler cut of eight cuts on top.

They would originally be cut by hand and would not have a symmetrical appearance.

Today’s brilliant-cut diamond may be recognized with its circular girdle and fifty-eight facets.

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